Nevado Illampu
The most technical mountain in the Cordillera Real
The protective mountain of the north
The protective mountain of the north
Illampu is rarely climbed and has one of the hardest ascents in the Cordillera Real. It should only be attempted by fit, experienced mountaineers but offers a wild, remote adventure to those up to the challenge.
Illampu is the most important god in Aymara culture.
The first expeditions to Illampu date back to 1902 (Annie Smith Peck) and 1919 (Sir Martin Conway) but were unsuccessful. After many attempts a German/Polish expedition reached the summit on July 27th 1928.
We leave La Paz early and drive to Sorata (2700m) from where we hike to our first camp in Ancoma (4200m).
After breakfast we load our equipment onto donkeys and hike for 3-4 hours to our basecamp at Aguas Calientes (4850m).
Today we use porters: the trail is too steep for donkeys. We hike for another 3-4 hours over moraine and rock until we reach the high camp (5600m) where we have dinner and an early night.
We start early and immediately meet a 60°, 400m tall wall which takes us to a long crest. We then follow this ridge all the way to Illampu’s summit (6368m). We descend by the same path: this will be slow as the route can be exposed.
We head back to Aguas Calientes (4850m).
We return to Ancoma (4200m) where our car is waiting to drive us back to La Paz.
Bilingual Mountain guide (Spanish- English)
Private transport
Food during the expedition.
Logistics transport equipment (donkeys / mules/porters)
Camping tent (NORTH FACE OR SIMILAR)
Cooking utensils
THERMAREST PLUS ROLL MAT
Dinning tent at base camp
National park tickets
Mountain Equipment/ Helmet,Ice axe,Harness,Gaiters,Ropes,Mountaineering boots.
Please take with you:
Rucksack (35Lts)
Big Rucksack or duffel bag (To be carried by porters or mules)
All season´s sleeping bag
Trekking boots
Waterproof gloves
Winter Underwear
Water proof pants and jacket
Sunscreen
Sunglasses with UV filter
Bottle of water (NALGENE)