Day 1

We La Paz and drive to Laguna Khotia (4570m) where we will transfer our equipment to the donkeys that will accompany us throughout the trip. We slowly gain altitude until we reach a pass (4820m) from which Lake Titicaca and the Altiplano can be seen stretching to the horizon. We descend to Ajuani (4670m) where we set up camp.

Day 2

After breakfast we start climbing to a mountain pass which affords us our first views of Huayna Potosi and the Condoriri Massif. We descend to Laguna Sistana (4620m) for lunch, and then climb to today’s second pass which reveals more of the Condoriri. Finally, we descend to Laguna Jurikhota (4600m) and set up camp for the night.

Day 3

We hike towards Laguna Glacial (4900m) at the base of the Condoriri Massif, before climbing to Austria Pass (5150m). At this point we can either take a detour via Pico Austria (5300m) or descend directly to our mountaineering basecamp next to Laguna Chiar Khota (4600m).

Day 4

After a hearty breakfast we organise our climbing gear and head to the base of the nearby glacier. We spend the day learning (or reminding ourselves of) essential mountaineering techniques: glacier traverse, knots, and the use of ice axes and crampons.

Day 5

Today’s objective is to improve our acclimatisation and practice the techniques we covered yesterday. We do this by summiting Piramide Blanca (5248m) via the normal route. This mountain provides a perfect opportunity to gain confidence with the new skills we have learnt.

Day 6

We set off very early and start climbing the same glacier as yesterday, but this time we take a different route to reach Pico Tarija (5250m). From here we get a perfect view of today’s summit: Pequeno Alpamayo (5370m). We climb 70m down Tarija and follow the ridge in front of us to reach Pequeno’s summit. This is a long day.

Day 7

This will be an easy day for us, where we rest and regain some energy from all the trekking and climbing we’ve been doing: we can look forward to lots of good food and wine!!

Day 8

Today we summit Cabeza del Condor (5700m), which is more technically challenging than anything we’ve attempted so far. We spend 6-7 hours on mixed moraine/rock before using everything we’ve learnt so far to pass the final narrow rock and ice section to reach the summit.

Day 9

We will spend the next few days trekking and will not need our crampons or ice axes. Today we climb only one mountain pass, Jistana (4900m), before descending into the Racacha valley and passing through old mining villages. We finish the day by setting ups camp between Maria Lloko (4450m) and the Western face of Huayna Potosi (6088m).

Day 10

Today we climb up to the mountain pass Huallatani (4850m) before circling around Milluni (5483m) to reach Huayna Potosi’s base camp (4700m) where we can have a shower and sleep indoors in a mountain refuge.

Day 11

After a good breakfast we head to the nearby glacier and learn some more advanced ice climbing/mountaineering techniques in preparation for the day after tomorrow!

Day 12

Today we hike for 2-3 hours to our high camp: the Mountaineer’s House (5130m). We have an early night and get ready for tomorrow.

Day 13

We will start our summit at 2AM. Today will bring together all of the skills and experience of the last week as we attempt Huayna Potosi’s French Route. We follow the standard route to 5500m where we take a detour to Huayna’s Eastern face. We climb this 330m wall (60°-65°) to the mountain’s Southern summit (5960m) before following an exposed ridge to the true Northern summit (6088m). We return to the basecamp by the normal route before driving back to La Paz.